Wood Bits: What You Actually Need to Know

Wood bits has gotten complicated with all the marketing jargon and endless options flying around. As someone who has spent the better part of two decades drilling holes in just about every species of lumber you can name, I learned everything there is to know about wood bits. Today, I will share it all with you.

Look, at the end of the day a wood bit does one thing — it bores a hole. But picking the wrong one for the job? That’ll cost you time, materials, and probably a few choice words muttered under your breath. I’ve been there more times than I’d like to admit.

Types of Wood Bits

There are a handful of bit types you’ll actually use on a regular basis. Each one has a sweet spot, and once you figure out which is which, your projects get a whole lot smoother.

Twist Bits

Twist bits are the ones most folks already own. They come with every basic drill kit, and honestly, they’ll handle a surprising amount of work. The wood-specific versions have a sharper tip angle that bites into the grain right away. The spiral flutes pull chips out as you go, which keeps things from getting gunked up. I use these for probably 60% of my day-to-day tasks — pilot holes, small hardware, that kind of thing.

Spade Bits

Spade bits — some people call them paddle bits — are the brute-force option. They’ve got that flat, wide head that chews through wood fast. Not pretty, not elegant, but when you need a big hole for running wire or plumbing through a stud wall, these are your go-to. The center point keeps you on target, but I’ll be honest, they can tear out the back side of your workpiece if you’re not careful. I always put a sacrificial board behind whatever I’m drilling when I use spade bits.

Forstner Bits

Now we’re talking. Forstner bits are what I reach for when the hole actually matters — when someone’s going to see it. They cut flat-bottomed, clean-edged holes that look professional. The circular rim shears the wood fibers cleanly, and that center spur keeps everything tracking straight. I use these constantly for cabinet hardware, shelf pin holes, and any joinery where a sloppy hole would show. They’re not cheap, but a good set of Forstners is worth every penny.

Auger Bits

Auger bits are the heavy lifters. Long, aggressive, and built for deep holes. That screw tip at the front literally pulls itself into the wood, so you don’t have to push hard at all. I keep a couple of these around for timber framing work and any time I need to go deep — like drilling through a 6×6 post. They take more torque than you’d think, so make sure your drill can handle them.

Brad Point Bits

Brad points are my favorite for furniture work. That sharp center point and the little spurs on the edges mean zero wandering. You put it where you want the hole, and that’s exactly where you get it. No skating across the surface, no off-center disasters. If you’re doing any kind of joinery or doweling, get yourself a decent set of brad points. Trust me on this.

What Each Bit Is Actually Good For

That’s what makes wood bits endearing to us woodworkers — each type has its own personality, and matching the right bit to the right job is half the craft.

• Framing and construction: When I’m doing rough carpentry, I grab spade and auger bits. Bolt holes, cable runs, pipe pass-throughs — speed matters more than looks here. I burned through three spade bits last year on a deck project alone, and I don’t regret a single one.
• Fine woodworking: Forstner and brad point bits live on my furniture bench. Joint work, decorative inlays, hinge mortises — this is precision territory. A sloppy hole in a walnut tabletop isn’t something you can hide.
• Weekend DIY stuff: Hanging shelves, building a garden box, putting up curtain rods — twist and spade bits will cover 90% of what you need. Don’t overthink it for simple projects.

How to Pick the Right Wood Bit

Probably should have led with this section, honestly. Choosing the right bit comes down to three things: what wood you’re drilling, how big the hole needs to be, and what drill you’re using.

Wood species matters more than people think. I was drilling into some white oak last month and absolutely destroyed a cheap twist bit in about ten holes. Hardwoods demand sharper, tougher bits. Softwoods like pine are more forgiving — you can get away with less aggressive geometry and still get clean results. But even with pine, the right bit makes a real difference in edge quality.

Hole diameter is pretty straightforward. Small holes under half an inch? Twist or brad point. Medium holes up to an inch or so? Forstner or spade. Big holes over an inch? Spade or auger, depending on how clean you need the cut. I keep a chart taped inside my shop cabinet because I still forget sometimes.

And don’t ignore your drill. I made the mistake once of trying to run a 1-1/2″ Forstner bit in a cordless drill that didn’t have the juice. It stalled, kicked, and left a mangled crater in what was supposed to be a nice cherry panel. Bigger bits need more torque. Period. If you’re doing serious boring, use a drill press or at least a heavy-duty corded drill.

Keeping Your Bits in Shape

A dull bit is worse than the wrong bit. It burns the wood, wanders off course, and makes everything harder than it needs to be. Here’s what I do to keep mine working right.

• Cleaning: After every session, I wipe my bits down with a dry rag. Pitch buildup is the silent killer of drill bits — especially when you’re working with resinous softwoods. For the stubborn gummy stuff, a little mineral spirits on a rag does the trick. Just make sure they’re bone dry before they go back in the drawer.
• Sharpening: Spade bits are dead simple to sharpen — a flat file and five minutes, and they’re cutting like new. Brad points and twist bits are trickier. I use a small diamond hone for touch-ups, but when they’re really gone, I send them out. There’s a sharpening service about twenty minutes from my shop that does great work for a couple bucks per bit.
• Storage: Tossing bits loose in a drawer is a recipe for chipped edges and rust. I keep mine in a divided organizer, sorted by type and size. My shop isn’t climate-controlled, so I also throw a silica gel packet in there during humid months. Seems like a small thing, but it makes a real difference.

Safety — Don’t Skip This

I know, I know. Nobody wants the safety lecture. But I’ve got a buddy who took a wood chip to the eye because he was “just drilling one quick hole” without his goggles. Spent the afternoon at urgent care instead of in the shop. Don’t be that guy.

• Wear safety goggles. Always. Even for “just one hole.” The chips and splinters come off fast and sharp.
• Make sure the chuck is tight. A loose bit can wobble, walk, or fly out entirely. Give that chuck an extra quarter-turn before you pull the trigger.
• Clamp your workpiece. Holding a board with one hand and drilling with the other is asking for trouble. I keep a pair of quick-clamps within arm’s reach at all times.
• Let the bit do the work. Pushing too hard generates heat, dulls the edge, and can snap the bit. Steady pressure, let it cut at its own pace. You’ll actually get through faster that way.

What’s New in Wood Bit Tech

The bit market has changed a lot even in just the last few years. Titanium and black oxide coatings used to be a premium thing — now they’re showing up on mid-range bits, and they genuinely help. Less friction means cleaner cuts and longer edge life. I switched my everyday twist bits to titanium-coated ones about two years ago and I’m buying replacements half as often.

Some manufacturers are doing interchangeable tip systems now, where you swap out just the cutting head instead of replacing the whole bit. Clever idea, and it saves money if you’re going through tips regularly on harder materials. I’ve tried a couple of these setups and they work surprisingly well once you get used to them.

Carbide tips are creeping into the wood bit world too. They’ve been standard in metalworking for ages, but the wood versions are getting more refined. More expensive upfront, sure, but the longevity is incredible. If you’re a pro drilling hundreds of holes a week, the math works out in your favor pretty quickly.

The spiral and flute designs keep improving too. Better chip evacuation, less heat buildup, smoother operation. It’s one of those areas where small engineering tweaks add up to a noticeably better experience at the drill press.