Understanding the French Cleat Wall
Workshop organization has gotten complicated with all the fancy modular systems flying around. As someone who has built out three different shop spaces over the years, I learned everything there is to know about French cleat walls. Today, I will share it all with you.
A French cleat wall is hands down my favorite way to organize a workspace. Simple concept, incredibly strong, and you can rearrange everything whenever you feel like it. I’ve had mine up for about six years now and it still holds everything from my heaviest planes to random jigs I built on a whim.
Origins and Basic Concept
This isn’t some trendy new thing. Cabinetmakers and woodworkers have been using French cleats for centuries. The idea is dead simple: take two pieces of wood, rip them both at 45 degrees, and they interlock. One strip goes on the wall with the bevel facing up. The matching strip goes on whatever you want to hang, bevel facing down. Gravity does the rest.
I remember the first time I saw one in action at an old-timer’s shop in Vermont. The guy had every single hand tool organized on his wall, and he could grab any of them without looking. That’s when I knew I needed one.
What You’ll Need
The materials list is refreshingly short:
- Wood boards — I use 3/4″ plywood ripped into strips, though hardwood works great too.
- Wood screws long enough to hit studs (3″ minimum for me).
- A table saw for the 45-degree rip cuts.
- A level — don’t eyeball this, please.
- Measuring tape.
You can also find metal French cleats if you’re hanging seriously heavy stuff. I used aluminum cleats for my lumber rack and they’ve held up perfectly.
How to Build Your French Cleat Wall
Probably should have led with this section, honestly. It’s easier than most people think.
First, figure out how much wall space you want to cover. I went floor to ceiling on one wall and it was the best decision I ever made in my shop. Measure the space and decide how many cleat strips you need — I space mine about 3 inches apart.
Rip your boards to whatever width works for you. I go about 3-1/2 inches wide. Set your table saw blade to 45 degrees and rip each board down the middle. Now you’ve got two pieces from every board — one for the wall, one for what you’re hanging.
Mount the first wall cleat with a level. Screw into studs, not just drywall. I use two screws per stud and I’m not shy about it. These things need to hold weight. Then just keep going up the wall, spacing your cleats evenly.
For the hanging pieces, attach the mating cleat to whatever you’re building — a tool holder, a shelf, a bin. Match the angle, hook it on the wall, and you’re in business.
Why I Love This System
That’s what makes the French cleat system endearing to us woodworkers — it’s endlessly adaptable without any permanent commitment.
- Total flexibility: Rearrange your whole shop layout in five minutes flat. Nothing is permanently fixed.
- Serious strength: The design distributes weight efficiently. I hang my cast iron hand planes on mine without a second thought.
- Everything visible: No more digging through drawers. Every tool is right there on the wall where you can see it.
- Completely customizable: Build holders for specific tools, make shelves any size you want, add bins wherever you need them.
Where French Cleats Work
Workshops and Garages
This is the obvious one. My shop cleat wall holds chisels, saws, clamps, squares, marking gauges — basically everything I reach for regularly. In my garage, I’ve got a separate cleat wall for yard tools, ladders, and storage bins. It freed up a ton of floor space.
Living Spaces

My wife actually asked me to install a cleat system in our kitchen for pots and utensils. The cleats hide behind whatever you hang, so it looks clean. Works beautifully for artwork too — you can swap pieces around without putting new holes in the wall every time.
Retail and Commercial Spaces
I’ve built cleat walls for a couple of local shops. They love being able to completely change their product displays without any new fixtures. Seasonal changes, promotions, whatever — just move things around.
Planning Your Layout
When designing your wall, put the heavy stuff lower. Common sense, but worth saying. I keep my hand planes and heavier tools at waist height, lighter stuff up top. It looks better balanced too.
The fun part is building custom holders. I’ve made dedicated racks for my chisels, a slot holder for my hand saws, and even a swing-out panel for clamps. The possibilities are honestly endless once you start thinking about it.
Keeping It in Shape
Maintenance is barely a thing. Check your wall screws once a year, maybe tighten anything that feels loose. If you’re hanging something really heavy, give those screws an extra check. That’s about it.
The beauty of the system is that expanding it is trivial. Need more space? Add another row of cleats. Need to reorganize? Just pick stuff up and move it. I’ve reconfigured my wall probably a dozen times and it takes maybe twenty minutes each time.
Recommended Woodworking Tools

HURRICANE 4-Piece Wood Chisel Set – $13.99
CR-V steel beveled edge blades for precision carving.
GREBSTK 4-Piece Wood Chisel Set – $13.98
Sharp bevel edge bench chisels for woodworking.
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