When I started woodworking, I bought too much stuff. Way too much. Half of it sat unused for years before I finally donated it or sold it at a garage sale. The other half I actually needed, but I didn’t know which was which at the time.
Now, after about fifteen years of building furniture and smaller projects, I have a clearer sense of what a woodworker actually needs versus what looks cool in a catalog.
The Absolute Basics
You need something to measure with, something to mark with, something to cut with, and something to smooth with. That’s the foundation.
A good tape measure and a combination square handle most measuring tasks. I use my combination square constantly—checking for square, marking lines, setting depths. It’s maybe the most-used tool in my shop.
For marking, a sharp pencil works fine for rough work. A marking knife or marking gauge gives you precision when you need it. I didn’t buy a marking gauge for my first five years and I wish I’d gotten one sooner.
Cutting means saws. A decent crosscut handsaw handles a lot of work. A backsaw for joinery. Eventually, most woodworkers add power saws—table saw, miter saw, circular saw—but you can build real furniture with hand tools alone. I know because I did it that way for a while.
Smoothing means planes and sandpaper. A block plane and a #4 or #5 bench plane cover most situations. Sandpaper handles the rest, though I use it less now than when I started.
Workholding
This is the part beginners underestimate. You can’t work on wood that’s moving around. You need ways to hold things still.
A solid workbench is the foundation. Doesn’t have to be fancy—I built my first one from construction lumber—but it needs to be heavy enough not to move and flat enough to be useful. The surface should be at a height where you can plane comfortably without killing your back.
Clamps. Lots of clamps. The saying goes that you can never have too many clamps, and it’s basically true. F-clamps, bar clamps, spring clamps, pipe clamps. I have maybe forty clamps now and still sometimes wish I had more.
A bench vise helps enormously. Mine is a cheap import that I’ve used for twelve years. It works fine.
Power Tools Worth Having
I resisted power tools for a while, thinking hand tools were more pure or something. That was silly. Power tools save time, and some operations are just easier with them.
A random orbit sander makes finishing so much faster. I use mine on almost every project.
A drill/driver is essential. Cordless is more convenient, but corded works fine if you’re on a budget. Get a decent set of bits while you’re at it.
A router opens up a world of joinery and edge profiles. I’d rank it as the third most useful power tool after the sander and drill. A plunge base adds versatility but isn’t essential starting out.
Beyond those three, you start getting into larger equipment—table saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer. All useful, but you can build a lot without them.
Sharpening Gear
Dull tools are dangerous tools. They require more force and slip more easily. Keeping edges sharp is fundamental to working wood safely and well.
You need some way to sharpen. Waterstones, oilstones, diamond plates, sandpaper on glass—they all work. I use diamond plates because they stay flat and cut quickly. Whatever system you choose, learn to use it consistently.
A honing guide helps beginners maintain consistent angles. Some people freehand sharpen, and that’s fine if you can do it, but a guide removes variables while you’re learning.
Safety Equipment
Hearing protection. Sawdust in your ears is unpleasant, but hearing damage is permanent. I wear earmuffs whenever I’m running power tools.
Eye protection. Always. I’ve had enough close calls with flying chips that I don’t argue about this anymore.
Dust collection or at minimum a good dust mask. Fine sawdust causes respiratory problems over time. My shop has a small dust collector that catches most of it, and I wear a mask for sanding regardless.
What You Don’t Need Right Away
Specialty planes. I have a shoulder plane, a router plane, a plow plane. I use them maybe twice a year each. Wait until you have a specific need.
Every size of chisel. A 1/4″, 1/2″, 3/4″, and 1″ chisel cover most work. You can add sizes as projects demand them.
Elaborate jigs. Simple jigs solve specific problems. Complicated jig systems mostly collect dust.
The latest and greatest anything. Tool companies want you to think last year’s model is obsolete. It isn’t.
Building Your Kit Over Time
The smart approach is buying tools as projects require them. Need to cut a dado? Now’s the time to get a dado stack or a router bit. Need to drill angled holes? Get a drill press or a doweling jig.
This way, every tool in your shop has proven its value. No orphans sitting unused because you thought you might need them someday.
My shop today looks nothing like my shop at year one. It evolved based on what I actually build. Yours will too.
